Greece Travel Guide - Recently Updated Pages

Northeastern Aegean Islands

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 11:40:22 CDT

Diverse, mysterious and achingly beautiful, the islands of the northeastern Aegean offer endless rewards for those intrepid enough to seek them out. Hidden sandy coves, lush mountain waterfalls and ancient sites of divine power are only a few of the attractions in this far-flung archipelago – also known for its wild celebration of saints’ feasts, delicious cuisine and good-natured sybaritism. While exasperating ferry schedules make island-hopping here a challenge, the individual character of each island more than makes up for the effort. Ikaria, with its bizarre rock formations and laid-back, leftist lifestyle is unique, as is Lesvos, with its 11 million olive trees and idyllic mountain villages. Semitropical Samos and pine-scented Thasos boast great beaches, while the almost unvisited Inousses, Fourni and Psara offer total serenity. These lesser-visited islands also have an importance entirely disproportionate to their size. Over one-third of Greece’s ship-owning dynasties hail from Chios and nearby Inousses; and 70% of the national firewater, ouzo, comes from Lesvos – also famous for its olive oil, rare fossils and the only petrified forest outside the USA. One of Europe’s most important ancient spiritual sites lies on distant Samothraki, and only in the villages of southern Chios is the renowned gum-producing mastic tree cultivated. And Little Thasos contains the world’s second-whitest marble.

STEREA ELLADA

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 11:37:23 CDT

Wherever you go in Sterea Ellada, the mythology and history of Greece seem to mingle in the rugged and scenic landscape. On the slopes of Mt Parnassos, overlooking the Gulf of Corinth, sits Delphi, regarded by the ancient Greeks as the centre of the world. Beyond Delphi, the lands stretch east to Attica, where legendary King Oedipus met his fate, and west to Messolongi, where British bard Lord Byron died of fever during the Greek War of Independence. In fact, the region acquired the name Sterea Ellada (Main-land Greece) in 1827, as part of the newly formed Greek state.Sterea Ellada is bordered by the narrow
gulfs of Corinth and Patra in the south, and Epiros to the north. This mountainous region is known as the ‘Agrafa’ or ‘unrecorded’, so named during theTurk-ish occupation, when the hard-to-reach mountain villages were written off for tax purposes as uncollectable. Today, these same mountains are prized for their beauty, and explored by hikers and river rafters alike.

Central Greece

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 11:35:35 CDT

It’s no coincidence that the rugged terrain of central Greece was the setting for heroic struggles among the gods and mortals. Journeys to this region provide glimpses of the essential character of the Greek people, along with plenty of outdoor adventures and unforgettable landscapes. The ruins at Delphi, where Alexander the Great sought the advice of the famous oracle of Delphi, remain one of Greece’s most inspiring archaeological sites and are also the starting point for hikes that follow ancient footpaths. The northern region of Thessaly is home to the monastery-topped pinnacles of Meteora, with buildings dating from the 14th century. The spectacular columns of rock are not only a mecca for Greek Orthodox pilgrims, but also home to world-class rock climbing, with over 100 sandstone peaks and towers to choose from. To the east lies the Pelion Peninsula, crisscrossed with old cobblestone donkey paths that link lush mountain hamlets with seaside coves and fishing villages. Sandy beaches rival the best of the Aegean islands, but without the crowds. According to Greek mythology, it was in nearby Volos that Jason and the Argonauts set sail in search of the Golden Fleece, in a boat made from timbers of the Pelion forests.Overlooking the Gulf of Corinth, the steep slopes of Mt Parnassos invite modern-day hikers to retrace ancient walking trails. River-rafting opportunities abound in the South Pindos ranges, and the high alpine meadows are perfect for breezy summer hikes. To the south, nearer to Athens, are the Byzantine frescoes of Osios Loukas, the most famous in Greece. And to the southwest, natural wetlands and wildlife sanctuaries stretch from the Corinthian Gulf west to the Ionian Sea.

Northern Greece

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 11:33:00 CDT

With its astonishing wealth of natural attractions, and a unique blend of histories and cultures, Northern Greece is arguably the country’s most fascinating region, yet one that remains relatively undiscovered. Its major metropolis, Thessaloniki, offers outstanding eateries, nightlife and shopping, while towns like Xanthi and Komotini in Thrace, Kastoria and Edessa in Macedonia, and Ioannina and Metsovo in Epiros offer an enthralling mix of traditional architecture, historical sites and welcoming locals.The waters of Northern Greece are equally enticing, ranging from Halkidiki’s hidden Aegean beaches to the tranquil Prespa Lakes and Evros Delta marshes, all home to rare bird populations. Other waterways, such as the Nestorio River in western Macedonia and the Ardas in eastern Thrace, host rockin’ summer festivals. The stylish Mediterranean resort of Parga, on the aquamarine Ionian Sea, has great sandy beaches and nightlife.Although a location of very ancient civilisations, Northern Greece is one of the modern country’s ‘younger’ parts. It was up for grabs during the turbulent decades leading to the Balkan Wars (1912–13) and through WWI, as regional entities and outside powers vied for control. This mixed legacy can be experienced in ways culinary and cultural alike. Indeed, getting off the beaten track in Greece’s Balkan north brings many unexpected rewards for the curious traveller.

Saronic & Gulf Islands

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 11:30:23 CDT

The Saronic Gulf Islands pepper the great waterway south of Athens like colourful stepping stones to the wider Aegean world.The most accessible islands of the group, Salamina, Aegina and Angistri, are just a short ferry-hop from the mainland. Salamina, the most accessible, is too easily dismissed as a mere suburb of Athens; yet this historic island boasts quiet rural areas and a few modest beaches to fit the island idyll. Next comes brash and cheerful Aegina, just an hour south from Piraeus by hydrofoil, while near-neighbour Angistri is a genuine holiday island, but with reassuringcorners of tranquillity, even in high season.Further south again is Poros, a popular weekend escape for Athenians, yet still within a few hundred metres of the Peloponnese and with a peaceful hinterland. Next comes the Saronic diva, Hydra, where tiers of pastel-hued houses rise majestically from a harbourside that is always bustling with life. Deepest south of all is pine-scented Spetses, nudged up against the mainland also, yet with an alluring sense of escape from the mainstream.There are decent beaches on all of the Saronics, with Angistri and Spetses having the best of the bunch. The islands do not boast a great number of architectural glories, although Aegina’s Temple of Aphaia is a premier site. If beaches and ancient sites are not your sole interests, then the Saronics offer authentic and rewarding Greek island experiences within easy reach of Athens.

Evia & the Sporades

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 11:19:27 CDT

In a nation known for its magical islands, Evia and the Sporades are not exactly household names. Some would be surprised, in fact, that Evia is an island at all. Joined by a short bridge at Halkida, and separated from the mainland by a narrow gulf, it’s one of those places that seem to be hidden in full view.
Only a couple of hours from Athens, Evia’s busy gateway resorts get their car loads of weekend visitors. But across the island, the pace is slower and the landscape pristine for long stretches, dotted by hill-top monasteries, small farms and vineyards, and goats staring at you in the middle of the road. Small beaches dot the west and southeast coasts, many of them with no more than one or two tavernas, and crystal-clear bays that would be lined with matching umbrellas and beach bars elsewhere. Skyros, the southernmost of the Sporades (in Greek, ‘scattered ones’), retains a good deal of local character, and its unique cuisine gets a thumbs up from locals and visitors alike. Closest to the mainland is Skiathos; once a sleepy fishing port, it now sees charter flights from northern Europe, and claims the sandiest beaches in the Aegean, along with several prime diving spots. Low-key Skopelos kicks back with a postcard-worthy harbour and its share of fine bays, beaches and forest meadows laced with old walking trails. Alonnisos, the most remote of the group, anchors the National Marine Park of Alonnisos – established to protect the Mediterranean monk seal – and is a model for ecological awareness throughout Greece. Alonnisos, like much of Evia and the other Sporades, is certain to yield unexpected finds, some from the natural landscape, and others from the good-natured islanders you’ll
encounter at every turn.

Ionian Islands

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 11:16:49 CDT

It’s hard not to fall for the Ionian Islands, an archipelago that sweeps down the west coast of mainland Greece and includes Corfu, Paxi, Lefkada, Ithaki, Kefallonia and Zakynthos. Discov-ering these islands is a tantalising odyssey. Their natural beauty embraces the visitor – the vast olive groves, intriguing mountainscapes and iridescent waters of the Ionian Sea offer something for adventure seekers, culture vultures and beach bums alike.Each island boasts a distinct tradition, cuisine and architecture – the remaining influences of former invading forces such as the Venetians, French and British. These influences are obvious in Corfu Town, where you can watch a cricket match on the Spianada, drink under Parisian-style arcades and wander through the town’s Venetian-style alleyways. Elsewhere in the Ionians – in the traditional fishing or mountain villages – you can stroll through central plazas shaded by bougainvilleas and plane trees, or relax under a taverna’s vine-covered canopy with the soporific scent of jasmine. Less-tasteful encounters exist, in the form of invasive, package-tourist beach developments, but these can be avoided. It’s easy to get off the beaten track: find your own isolated swimming coves in a boat, wander through olive groves, or stumble across an authentic kafeneio (coffee house). Cultural adventurers can explore fortresses, Byzantine churches and Homeric sites. Adventure addicts can trek, cycle, windsurf and scuba dive, and anyone can try bird-watching or golf.The culinary experience rounds off an Ionian journey: indulge in fresh, generous helpings of local dishes, served with a huge dollop of local filoxenia (hospitality).

Dodecanese

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 11:12:50 CDT

Strung out along the coast of western Turkey, like jewels upon an impossibly aquamarine sea, the Dodecanese both entrance and attract passers-by – many of whom return year after year to sample some of the most culturally and geographically diverse islands in the Aegean.These 18 islands (including satellites) are an entity unto themselves. Under Italian rule until 1947, they maintain an air of slight separateness and, unsurprisingly, still attract large numbers of curious Italian visitors. The islands are a beguiling mix of sea, mountain and meadow and, because they are all close to one another, can easily be ‘hopped’. They need that extra effort to get to, but the rewards far outweigh the investment.The spiritually inclined will make a beeline for Patmos. The developed resorts of Rhodes and Kos have beaches and bars galore, while Lipsi and Tilos have seductive beaches, minus the crowds. The far-flung islands of Agathonisi, Arki, Kasos and Kastellorizo await Greek-island aficionados in pursuit of traditional island life, while everyone gapes at the extraordinary volcanic landscape that geological turbulence has created on Nisyros. The islands’ chequered history has also endowed them with a wealth of diverse archaeological remains.

Peloponnese

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 11:10:20 CDT

The Peloponnese (pel-o-pon-ih-sos) is the stuff that legends are made of. Numerous myths were born and borne out here – it is where many a Greek god or hero strutted their stuff(and aired their bodies). Today this region is far from a fable. It boasts historical sites, withclassical temples, Mycenaean palaces, Byzantine cities, and Frankish and Venetian fortresses.You can rub shoulders with the ghost of Agamemnon at Mycenae, mighty redoubt of a oncegreat civilisation, or flex your muscles at ancient Olympia, spiritual home of the Olympics. You can cite Oedipus in the Theatre of Epidavros or be entranced by Mystras, where the Byzantine civilisation died in the 14th century. Greece’s first capital, Nafplio, is today a cosmopolitan and romantic city; captivating, too, is the Venetian stronghold of Monemvasia.The region’s natural playground truly mesmerises, with lofty, snowcapped mountains,lush gorges, valleys of citrus groves and vineyards, cypress trees, streams and sun-specked beaches. Spring is the perfect time for DIY explorations. Hike in the wildflower-covered mountains of Arkadia, or in the rugged Mani, which bristle with fortified tower houses. Summer is a beach bum’s delight: the beaches of Messinia are among Greece’s finest. Winter brings snow to the higher ground and a chance to launch yourself down Mt Helmos on skis.For centuries Greeks have fought hard against invaders of their Peloponnese paradise; today foreigners are far from repelled (ask the permanent influx of Brits). Filoxenia (hospitality)is as strong here as anywhere in the country. The locals claim to have the best of everythingto give. And that’s no myth.

Athens

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 11:05:47 CDT

The Greek capital is undergoing a radical period of urban renewal that did not stop with the 2004 Olympics. The magnificent Acropolis, crowned by the iconic Parthenon temple, rises above the city, watching the sprawling modern metropolis evolve. Athens is now a conspicuously wealthier, more sophisticated cosmopolitan city. The shift is evident in a gradual gentrification and the new art and leisure precincts around town, and in the lifestyles of the hedonistic, trend-conscious Athenians. Stylish new restaurants, shops and revamped hotels continue to open. Perhaps the most significant change is in the historic centre, virtually unrecognisable since cars were banished, with most significant ancient sites linked in what has become Europe’s longest and arguably most stunning pedestrian promenade. This huge archaeological park has reconciled past and present, with the city’s cultural and social life once again taking place around the ancient monuments and surrounding neighbourhoods. Athens remains a city of contradictions, as frustrating as it is seductive. It is the oldest city in Europe, yet still in a state of transition. It’s one of Europe’s safest and liveliest cities – a heady mix of grunge and grace with an undeniable urban soul.Most visitors will leave impressed with its vibrant street life and relaxed lifestyle, where people take time out for endless coffees and evening strolls, dine out until late and enjoy the city’s nightlife, long after the rest of Europe has gone to bed. Athenians are the first to debate and lament their city’s many shortcomings – but most wouldn’t live anywhere else.

Crete

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 11:02:36 CDT

Crete is more like a small country than another Greek island. It’s not just Greece’s largest island, but arguably the most fascinating and diverse.
Crete’s remarkable history is evident across the island, from the ruins of Minoan palaces, Venetian fortresses, old mosques and Byzantine monasteries to the cave that is the legen-dary birthplace of Zeus. The Venetian ports of Hania and Rethymno are two of Greece’s most evocative cities. Crete is renowned for its natural beauty and diverse landscape. Spectacular mountain ranges dotted with caves are sliced by dramatic gorges that spill out to sea. The rugged
interior is interspersed with vast plateaus and fertile plains. The east boasts Europe’s only palm-tree forest beach and the south coast has some of the most stunning beaches and isolated coves. Cretans are proud and hospitable people who maintain their culture and customs, particu-larly their strong musical tradition. Throughout the island you will come across traditional mountain villages and agricultural settlements unaffected by tourism. The young might drive
four-wheel-drives but you will still pass shepherds tending their flocks and come across men in traditional dress.An abundance of fresh produce and the distinct Cretan cuisine – renowned for its life-prolonging qualities – adds an interesting culinary dimension.Crete has the dubious honour of hosting nearly a quarter of Greece’s tourists. Much of the north coast has been commandeered and spoilt by hotels and cheap package tourism, but the island is big enough for independent travellers to venture off and find quiet beach settlements and mountain villages to explore.

THE GREEK KITCHEN

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 10:55:57 CDT

The essence of Greek cuisine lies in its fresh, unadulterated seasonal produce and original flavours. The cuisine is generally unfussy and its simplicity brings out the rich flavours of the Mediterranean. The majority of Greek dishes are mainly seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon, olive oil and pungent Greek oregano, while parsley, garlic and dill are also widely used. Vegetables, pulses and legumes (key elements of the healthy Mediterranean diet) are made tastier by plentiful use of olive oil and herbs. Meat has become more prominent in the modern diet; lamb and pork dominate, though kid goat is also common. Beef is mostly imported and chicken is also widely used, with special dishes being reserved for the kokoras (rooster). At home meat is commonly prepared with lemon andoregano and baked with potatoes, or used in tomato-based stews (kokkinisto). Rabbit is either fried or cooked in a stifadho. Almost every part of the animal is used – from the delicacy ameletita (literally ‘unspeaka-bles’), which are fried sheep’s testicles to kokoretsi (spicy, spit-roasted offal wrapped in intestines) and the hangover-busting patsas (tripe soup).In a land with countless miles of coastline, fish has long been a staple. Fish from the Mediterranean and Aegean Seas are tasty enough to be cooked with minimum fuss – usually grilled whole and drizzled with ladholemono (a lemon and oil dressing). Smaller fish like barbounia (red mullet) and maridha (whitebait) are lightly fried.

NATIONAL PARKS

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 10:52:47 CDT

National Parks in Greece are not quite like those in modern Western societies. They tend to be protected reserves for the flora and fauna of the region first rather than Disneyfied recreational grounds for socially con-scious visitors. Facilities can be basic to decent – forget motorised tours –yet there will be abundant walking trails, some quite rough and more often than not a clutch of basic refuges for sparse-minded guests. Still, they serve their purpose and for the appreciative and unfussy visitor they will be an excellent alternative to the Yellowstones and Grand Canyons of this world.For visitors who crave a little interactivity with nature, the most visited parks are Mt Parnitha , just north of Athens, and the very popular Samaria Gorge on Crete. The other national parks are Vikos-Aoös in Epiros with excellent trekking; Prespa in Macedonia; Mt Olympus on the border of Thessaly and Macedonia; and Parnas-sos and Iti in central Greece. Most consist of buffer zones protecting an inner wilderness area. Some activities (including hunting!) are permitted in the buffer areas, but no activities other than walking are allowed in the protected area.

Marine Life

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 10:50:05 CDT

Surprisingly perhaps for a country with such an expanse of sea territory, the state of Greece’s marine life is precarious. To their credit the Greeks
have taken great pains to clean up their act in and around the water. Water clarity in the Saronic Gulf – once notoriously polluted – is almost on a par
with the further reaches of the Aegean archipelago. Biological treatment of waste is largely responsible and has been very successful. Legislation aimed at preventing water pollution has been noticeably effective at keeping the quality of Greece’s seawater at respectable level of salinity. The problems here arise from foreign ships that illegally discharge their waste into the sea.The more endemic problem, however, lies in overfishing – a problem that is admittedly Mediterranean-wide. While Greeks love their fresh-fish restaurants and will pay a premium to eat it, finding the fresh fish is getting everharder. More often than not it will come from fish-farmers or from further afield. Greece now produces more than 60,000 tons per annum of farmed fish and around 60% of the EU’s sea bass and sea bream.Dolphins can be spotted during almost any ferry trip and they are in abundance particularly in the turgid waters of the Amvrakikos Gulf of Western Greece. The continent’s rarest mammal – the monk seal (Monachus monachus) – ekes out an extremely precarious existence in Greece,which is host to about 50% of Europe’s minuscule population of 400. It is estimated that about 40 live in the Ionian Sea and the remaining 160 are scattered in small pockets around the Aegean Sea. Previous pervasive habitat encroachment is the main culprit for the paucity in numbers of this species. Small colonies live on the islands of Alonnisos and there have been reported sightings on Tilos .The waters around Zakynthos are also home to the last large sea turtle colony in Europe, that of the loggerhead turtle The loggerhead also nests in smaller numbers on the Peloponnese and on Crete.

SPORT

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 10:41:43 CDT

Two unexpected sporting triumphs – the resounding success of the Athens 2004 Olympic Games and the Greek football (soccer) team’s astound-
ing victory in the European Cup brought Greece into the international spotlight in 2004. The national basketball team kept up the momentum when they became European champions the following year, for a brief time making Greece the reigning European champions in both football and basketball. But since then little of note has happened in the international sporting arena. Greek football has been riding high, however, after many years in the doldrums. Greece had never won a game in a major football champion-ship before their extraordinary performance in the European finals. While the national team post-Euro performance was largely lacklustre, they did manage to qualify to defend their title for the Euro 2008 championship with a determined win against Turkey. Football remains the most popular spectator sport in Greece and you will see large TV screens set up outside cafés and tavernas on big match nights. The first division is dominated by the big glamour-clubs of the league: Olympiakos of Piraeus and Panathinaikos of Athens. Their rivalry is occasionally interrupted by AEK Athens and PAOK from Thessaloniki. Greece normally fields two teams in the European Champions League. Basketball is the other major sport. Basketball gained popularity after the Greek team first won the European championship in 1987, for a while overtaking football as business tycoons bought the big clubs and paid big money for broadcast rights. Panathinaikos, Olympiakos and AEK are also the big clubs of Greek basketball. Panathinaikos was European champion in 1996, 2000 and 2002, and Olympiakos followed suit in 1997, while AEK, Aris and PAOK have also won European titles (Greece’s national team finished fourth in the European basketball championships in 2007).Greece’s interest in other sports was boosted during the Athens Olym-pics, where Greek athletes won a record 16 Olympic medals, split evenly between men’s and women’s sports. Since 2004, some of Athens’ world-class Olympic sports stadi-ums have attracted international sporting events and track meetings, but most are still awaiting their new fate and likely to be turned into entertainment complexes.

Theatre

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 10:38:33 CDT

Drama in Greece can be dated back to the contests staged at the Ancient Theatre of Dionysos in Athens during the 6th century BC for the annual Dionysia festival. During one of these competitions, Thespis left the ensemble and took centre stage for a solo performance. This is regarded as the first true dramatic performance – thus the term ‘thespian’. Aeschylus (c 525–456 BC) is the so-called ‘father of tragedy’; his best-known work is the Oresteia trilogy. Sophocles (c 496–406 BC), regarded as the greatest tragedian, is thought to have written over 100 plays, of which only seven survive. These include Antigone, Electra and his most famous play, Oedipus Rex. Sophocles, whose plays dealt mainly with tales from mythology and had complex plots, won first prize 18 times at the Dionysia festival Euripides (c 485–406 BC) was more popular than either Aeschylus or Sophocles because his plots were considered more exciting. He wrote 80 plays, of which 19 are extant (although one, Rhesus, is disputed). His most famous works are Medea, Andromache, Orestes and Bacchae.Aristophanes (c 427–387 BC) wrote comedies – often ribald – that dealt with topical issues. His play The Wasps ridicules Athenians who resorted
to litigation over trivialities, The Birds pokes fun at Athenian gullibility and Ploutos deals with the unfair distribution of wealth.You can see plays by the ancient Greek playwrights at the Athens and Epidavros festivals and at various festivals around the country.Drama continues to feature prominently in domestic arts. Athens supports a lively winter theatre scene, with more than 200 theatres presenting anything from Sophocles to Beckett, as well as popular slapstick comedies and political satires.The most distinguished modern Greek playwrights are the father of postwar drama Iakovos Kambanellis, Yiorgos Skourtis and Pavlos Matessis, whose plays have been translated and performed outside Greece.

Religion & Identity

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 10:36:24 CDT

The Orthodox faith is the official and prevailing religion of Greece and a key element of Greek identity, ethnicity and culture. There is a prevailing view that to be Greek is to be Orthodox. While the younger generation aren’t generally devout, nor attend church regularly, most observe the rituals and consider their faith part of their identity. Between 94% and 97% of the Greek population belong at least nominally to the Greek Orthodox Church. During consecutive foreign occupations, Greeks maintained a sense of unity through the church, which was the principal upholder of Greek culture, language and traditions. Under Ottoman rule, religion was one of the most important criteria in defining a Greek. The church still exerts significant social, political and economic influence in Greece, which doesn’t have the same church-state separation as other Western countries (priests are even paid by the state). Until recently Greece was one of the few European countries where religious affiliation appeared on national identity cards. Non-Orthodox Greeks can still have a hard time joining the civil service or military, civil marriages have only been recognised since the early 1980s and cremation was only recently legalised after much controversy. The Greek year is centred on the saints’ days and festivals of the church
calendar. Namedays (celebrating your namesake saint) are celebrated more than birthdays and baptisms are an important rite. Most people are named
after a saint, as are boats, suburbs and train stations.You will notice taxi drivers, motorcyclists and people on public transport making the sign of the cross when they pass a church, and many Greeks will go to a church when they have a problem to light a candle to the relevant saint. There are hundreds of tiny churches dotted around the countryside, predominantly built by individual families dedicated to particular saints. The tiny roadside iconostases or chapels you see everywhere are either shrines to people who died in road accidents or similar dedications to saints. If you wish to look around a church or monastery, you should always dress appropriately. Women should wear skirts that reach below the knees, men should wear long trousers and arms should be covered. While religious freedom is part of the constitution, the only other officially recognised religions in Greece are Judaism and Islam, despite the existence of anything from Greek Jehovah’s Witnesses to Scientologists. While there is tolerance of non-Orthodox faiths, they do face legal and administrative impediments.

Family life

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 10:33:01 CDT

Greek society remains dominated by the family. It’s uncommon for Greek children to move out of home before they are married, unless they are going to university or find work in another city. While this is slowly changing among professionals and people marrying later, low wages are also keeping
Greek children at home. Parents strive to provide homes for their children when they get married, with many families building apartments for each child above their own (thus the number of unfinished buildings you see). Extended family plays an important role in daily life, with grandparents often looking after grandchildren while parents work or socialise. The tradeoff is that children look after their elderly parents, rather than consign them to nursing homes.Greeks attach great importance to education, with the previous generation determined to provide their children the opportunities they lacked. English and other languages are widely spoken by the younger generation. Greece has the highest number of students in the EU studying at universities abroad, though many end up overeducated and underemployed. Greeks retain strong regional identities and affiliations, despite the majority having left their ancestral villages for the cities or abroad. Even the country’s remotest villages are bustling during holidays, elections and other excuses for family reunions and homecomings. One of the first questions Greeks will ask a stranger is what part of Greece they come from.

The Culture

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 10:30:19 CDT

Greeks have long lived in the shadow of their ancient ancestors’ illustrious cultural and artistic legacy. If history is a country’s burden, then the baggage
of centuries of foreign occupation and colonisation, war, political turmoil, isolation, poverty and mass emigration also weighs heavily on the Greek psyche. The exotic 1960s image of Greece as a nation of carefree pleasure-seeking Zorbas may have reflected their resilience and spirit, but not the complexity of the Greek character.The Greeks are undeniably passionate, fiercely independent and proud of their heritage. While their ancestry can give them a smug sense of cultural superiority, they are well aware of their present-day underdog status in the new Europe and are more firmly focused on building a future.Since they came hurtling into the EU in 1981 as the smallest and poorest nation on the block, Greeks have been struggling to catch up with the radical, fast-tracked social changes, modernisation and economic reforms that are sweeping the country.The resounding success of the Athens 2004 Olympic Games was a major turning-point in changing the perception of Greece as a European backwater, while Greece’s euphoric European Cup football triumph that same year also boosted morale and national pride. Greece’s first Eurovision Song Contest win, in 2005, proved another confidence booster.Real freedom and self-determination has only been a recent phenomenon but these days the resilience of Greek culture and traditions are being tested by globalisation and market forces. The current generation of Greeks is dealing with a massive generational and technological divide; multilingual
children playing games on their mobile phones while their illiterate grand-fathers still get around on a mule. In the major shift from a largely poor, agrarian existence to increasingly sophisticated urban dwellers, Greeks are also delicately balancing cultural and religious mores. The younger genera-tion of Greeks is multilingual, educated, far less insular and increasingly more widely travelled. As Greeks continue to reinvent themselves, the Greek psychepresents some intriguing paradoxes. Greeks have an undeniable zest for life, but aren’t into making plans, with spontaneity a refreshing aspect of social life. They like to flaunt their newfound wealth with top brand-name clothing and flashy cars, and they are prone to displays of excess, especially in spending on entertainment. In many ways the chain-smoking, mobile-phone addicted, consumerist Greeks are making up for lost time.
Greeks have long enjoyed a reputation as loyal friends and generous hosts. They pride themselves on their filotimo (dignity and sense of honour), and
their filoxenia (hospitality, welcome, shelter), which you will find in even the poorest household.Yet this hospitality and generosity seems to extinguish in the pubic sphere, where surly civil servants show a distinct lack of interest in customer service. Given political stability is a relatively recent phenomenon (since 1975), there is a residual mistrust of authority and little respect for the state; personal freedom and democratic rights are almost sacrosanct and
there is an aversion to the Big Brother approach of many over-regulated Western nations.

THE BALKAN WARS

greecetravelguide — Fri, 29 May 2009 10:26:36 CDT

Although the Ottoman Empire was in its death throes at the beginning of the 20th century, it was still clinging onto Macedonia. This was a prize sought by the newly formed Balkan countries of Serbia and Bulgaria, as well as by Greece, and led t the outbreak of the Balkan Wars. The first, in 1912, pitted all three against the Turks; the second, in 1913, pitted Serbia and Greece against Bulgaria. The outcome was the Treaty of Bucharest (August 1913), which greatly expanded Greek territory by adding to it the southern part of Macedonia, part of Thrace, another chunk of Epiros, and the Northeastern Aegean Islands, as well as recognising the union with Crete.In March 1913 King George was assassinated by a lunatic and his son Constantine became king.